I've Migrated my Blog to Medium

I believe that Medium offers a better writing and reading experience, so I finally took the effort and migrated all my posts to the new location of my blog: mylifeasa.tinkerer.us. Click the orange "Redirect page" button on any page to view that post on Medium. It'll also store a cookie in your browser to automatically redirect you to the corresponding Medium article anytime you land on one of my Blogger posts.

If you're interested in migrating your own Blogger site to Medium, I wrote a tutorial at my new blog location: How to migrate your blog from Blogger to Medium.

Thanks and see you on Medium!

How to Automatically Unzip Files Downloaded from Chrome on Windows

macOS has a nice feature where it can automatically unzip “safe” files after downloading. I was looking for a way to do the same thing on Windows and couldn’t find a nice tutorial using free or open source software, so I decided to create my own. I should say that this process could be a security concern if you manage to download a file that unzips into a virus, but I decided that the convenience is worth the possible risk.

Particle-Losant Integration using Webhooks

As I’ve posted on my blog before, I use a Spark Core to control the lights in my bedroom. In my first blog post, I described the original hardware and firmware. In the second blog post, I described the hardware and software updates, and also how I integrated it with IFTTT. Recently, I wrote a post about integrating Liquor Lights into the project. I had thought that these changes had fixed the remaining issues, but I was still experiencing problems where the lights would turn on and off without input. I had to think of a way to log what what happening so that I could dive in and see what is actually going wrong.

My Spark Lamp project’s hardware

IoT Liquor Lights using Spark Core

My whiskey collection was starting to outgrow the space that was allocated for it in the kitchen so I was brainstorming a new place to put them. I love how unique the bottles and colors are for each drink, so I wanted a way to display them. With the help of my girlfriend, we decided to move them into a small bookcase in the corner of our apartment that was mainly used for displaying knickknacks. We decided it would look nice if we could light up the bottles, and I of course needed to connect that light to the internet!

Spark Lamp Update

At the beginning of the year, I posted my Spark Lamp project. It worked fine most of the time but I noticed when I would get home from work and flip the light switch on the wall to turn the lamps on, it would take 10 to 15 seconds before the lights actually turned on. This really started to become an issue when Daylight Savings ended in November and it was dark out when I got home from work.

View post on imgur.com

Spark Lamp

     There is a light switch on the wall at the entrance of the bedroom in my apartment. You would imagine it would turn on the bedroom lights, but since there are not ceiling lights in the bedroom, it can't do that. What it actually controls is the power to a single receptacle on the wall. In the past, I've had two lamps plugged into this one receptacle. The lamps sit on nightstands on either side of the bed, but there is a problem. Imagine you're getting ready for bed. It's dark out, so as you walk into the bedroom, you flip the light switch on and the lamps come on. Just as expected. Now you're going to bed and you want the lights off - you have two choices: go to the wall and flip the switch again, or individually turn the lamp's power switches off. Of course you're not going to get out of a warm and comfortable bed to flip the light switch so you turn the lamps off. Now here's the dilemma. In the morning, you want the lights back on, right? You have to clumsily reach under both lampshades to turn the lights back on because the light switch won't do squat if the lamps are powered off. That's what this project aims to solve. The light switch will work as any other light switch does - flip it up and both lamps come on and down to turn them both off. Each lamp will have a switch that not only has the ability to turn that lamp on or off, but also to control the other lamp just as easily. And finally, have control of the lights and read their status over the internet. Because this is the future and I want to turn lights on I can't even see. Read on to see how to do it.

electric imp-Controlled 120VAC Relay Switcher Software Update

     About half a year ago I published a post about my electric imp-Controlled 120VAC Relay Switcher project. I used it very often to start making coffee in the morning while I was still in bed. Since I was still using iWebKit for the web app, I searched around for a framework that was visually in the style of iOS7. There are so many available frameworks around like Ratchet, ChocolateChip-UI, and Onsen UI and I tested many of them but none gave me everything I wanted. I finally found Google's Web Starter Kit and it was perfect for me. I could easily extend it with JavaScript, it had a responsive design, and the gulp tool for automatically refreshing all pages on all devices on a file change helped me quickly debug errors. While I was changing the UI, I also added a timer function to the code.

1st 1/4 of '14

     It's April and I haven't posted much about any of the projects I've been working on. I haven't completed any big projects that I thought warranted their own blog post, but I'll use this one to explain what I've been doing and what I plan on doing soon. 

electric imp-Controlled 120VAC Relay Switcher

     I bought an electric imp about a year and a half ago when they were released. I loved it's simplicity and made a few temporary projects involving it but wanted to keep it for something more advanced. After all this time, I decided it's better just to use it for anything rather than leave it just sitting in a box in my room, so I've made an internet-controlled 120V_AC relay switcher for it and an "app" for my iPhone to switch it remotely. I'm sure there are other ways of accomplishing this project, but I was able to build the whole thing using parts I already had on hand. This blog post will be a high-level overview of what I did to make it.

Update: I've updated the software as shown in this blog post.

Past Few Months

     I noticed I haven't posted anything for four months. Now that I have a job doing electrical engineering, I don't have the same urge to tinker on the nights and weekends. I've still being doing some small things every once and a while, but since I haven't finished any of it yet, I haven't posted anything about them yet.

     I got some new development boards that I've played with. I got two different watches from Texas Instruments. One is Bluetooth (and doesn't seem compatible with any phones made in the last few years) and the other has a 915 MHz radio that I wanted to connect with my home security system (but it has a proprietary wireless stack and I don't want to rewrite it to use with my system. Also, I had to take my security system down after a thunderstorm hit my apartment and destroyed the power system for it.) I also got a TI BLE Sensortag which seems pretty neat, but I need an Apple computer to mess with the iPhone app, so I haven't used it for much of anything. I bought some ATTiny13 chips to work with those programmable LED Christmas lights. I was having a problem using my cheapo programmer to set the clock frequency right, so I stopped working on that. I received my 2 Borderless Electronics Arduino clones. I haven't done anything with it yet but I'm keeping one of them in my car in case a situation comes up where I need to hack something. The creator of the project just launched a part 2 for that project which I decided to back because of how quick and professionally he dealt with the first one. His fundraiser was the best experience I've ever had with a crowd-funding website.

     Last week, I went to a design workshop for work and got to play with a Avnet Wi-Go module so I could use that for an internet-controlled project in the future. I also won one of the new MSP430 Launchpads with the USB HID interface but I have no idea what kind of project I would use that for. The last thing I've been working on is an internet-controlled AC switch that uses the electric imp for it's brains. I need a MOSFET with a Vgs of 3.3V to finish the electronics of the project. I can't believe I have so many electronic parts but can't find a suitable MOSFET. After that, I'll create a 3D-printed case and it should be done. It's pretty simple overall, but I'll still try and write up a blog post on it.

Adjustable RGB LED Color Cube

     I took a sculpture class during my last semester at Penn State so I could meet the required number of credits to graduate. One of the last projects in that class was to create an interactive art installation. I went through a few ideas in my head and doodled them in the Paper app for iPad. You can view the PDF of my ideas here. After I had a good idea of what my design would be, I ordered the parts I did not have on hand from Amazon and eBay. I ordered an Arduino Mega clone, the SainSmart MEGA 2560 Board for Arduino, some Common Cathode RGB LEDs, and some slide potentiometers. I also made a trip to the local hardware store for materials for the overall structure. Before the break is a video explaining the operation of the final project. After the break, I’ll explain how I created the three main pieces to this project - the electronics, the code on the Arduino that controls everything, and the casing for both the base and the controller.

Programming Arduino Bootloader on ATmega328p with ZeptoProg II

     I love creating electronics projects in the most cost effective way. If you're going to use an Arduino in a project, you could embed the whole $30 board, or just the $3 IC chip. Unfortunately, after using just the chip, a brand new ATmega from electronics resellers won't work with the Arduino right off the bat. You have to program the bootloader onto the chip for it to work properly. This blog post will show you how to program the bootloader using a great $20 electronics multitool, the ZeptoProg II, in a few easy steps.

Arduino Diecimila and ZeptoProg II 

Closet Door Lightswitch

     There is a closet in the hallway of my house that is affectionately known as "The Only Hallway Closet". It stores my family's jackets, shoes, blankets, and batteries. The problem with this closet is that it doesn't have a light. Sure, we've tried those stick-on lights that they sell in infomercials, but they don't work that well and it's very easy to forget to turn them off. My dad bought a ceiling light for the closet, but it was never installed. I decided it was about time there was a permanent light source in that closet and I wanted to do it in style. I designed some sensors that detect when the door is opened and closed and will accordingly turn the closet light on and off. This blog post details everything about creating this project, including the electronics and installation.

No lightswitch required

Video overview

Why I've Been Gone

     I just finished my next-to-last semester at Penn State, and boy, was it a busy one. I took 5 courses spread over electrical engineering, computer engineering, and computer science, plus a physical education course. Academically, I did very well, but it didn't leave me any time for hobby projects. I only turned my 3D printer on once, and didn't even have enough time to finish a print. The only thing I have completed is a makeshift 3D-printed case for my MSP430 Reaction Game. I call it makeshift because I had some rough parts printed out before but heavily modified them with a drill and knife. Also, I had to use a different potentiometer and buttons with this case setup. I'd really like to make a case that can keep the stock parts. I made this case the night before a job interview because it seemed the company would be more impressed with the addition of the case.

     Over the past month or so I got a bunch of new gadgets. On Black Friday, I got an iPad mini. I really like it and can see how it'll be convenient when I'm tinkering because I can keep the small device on my cluttered desk to reference things on compared to a huge laptop that takes up space. Plus the voice dictation makes it practically hand-free when I need to look something up with my hands full of tools. A few days ago I was able to update from my iPhone 4 to an iPhone 5 and the speed increase is very impressive.I don't think the taller screen is revolutionary, but Siri is very useful and I use it a few times every day. I also installed Windows 8 on my laptop's second drive so I can dual boot into it whenever I want (which will be never). I was able to get it for cheap as a Penn State employee, so I took a shot at it. I only booted it once after the quick and painless install, but I hate just about everything about it. It seems so counterproductive. It might be OK as a "second-screen" device like an iPad, but I can't see how it would replace the old Windows desktop. Last, but not least, I got a new Weller soldering iron for Christmas from my girlfriend. It's about time I get a replacement for the second-hand iron I started out with.

     I'm hoping this semester will leave me some extra time for my own projects. I'm taking fewer classes and one of them is my senior design course, so it's guaranteed that I'll be working on something. I am unsure if I will be able to post anything long or in-depth on this blog, but I'd like to post some snippets of my work on my Google+.

Google Chrome Remote Webcam Viewer

     Chances are you don't have the equipment necessary to set up a security system just lying around, right? Well, you may be wrong. With only two computers - one with a webcam - and the Google Chrome browser installed on both, you have a rudimentary security system.

     First, we'll set up the computer that will be connected to the webcam. Chances are this will be a laptop - because it seems that most - if not all - laptops these days have a built-in webcam. You should also be able to use a desktop or laptop with a USB webcam too, which might be ideal for placement purposes. On this computer, install Google Chrome version 21 or above (version 21 includes support for a new API that allows the browser to access the webcam - don't worry, there's lot of warnings when you turn it on so you won't have someone spying on you without your knowledge). Once Chrome is installed, go to the Chrome Remote Desktop BETA's Chrome Web Store link and install it (Note: This app requires at least Windows Vista or newer to work - for "security" reasons). Once it is installed, launch it and follow the simple steps to get it configured.

     Now we will install Google Chrome on the viewer computer. The version does not specifically matter - as long as it can run the Remote Desktop app. Install the same Chrome Remote Desktop BETA app on this computer and configure it as well. When you check out the app on the viewer computer, it will list your other computers along the bottom. Click on the cam computer you want to connect to and you will be prompted to enter the pin you set up when you configured the app. Open the HTML5 Webcam Toy link on the cam computer and allow the site to connect to the webcam. You can now remotely view the webcam's video from another computer exclusively using Google Chrome - a program that doesn't require administrative rights to install. Have fun with it!

DISCLAIMER: Don't use this process to spy on things you shouldn't be looking at. I'm only posting this as a neat novelty use of technology. I will not be held responsible for any possible trouble you get yourself into using this technique.

View on the viewer computer

The cam computer is set up behind me

Filament Spool Stand

     When I first saw Cubic Print's Filament Spool, I knew it was something that I needed to make. You can only print with air-spooled filament for a couple prints before it gets tangled and you go crazy (I would know). It's a fantastic print, but it certainly needs to be attached to something to be used to it's full potential. I had originally planned on mounting it vertically like I've seen the majority of spool holders do, but then I decided I could slim down the design by making the spool sit horizontal, just like I used to have my filament sitting. My final design files ended up under Filament Spool Stand by Dillon1337 on Thingiverse. With 10 printed parts and less than $10 in parts, I had a very useful filament spool stand. Read on for the full scoop.

My usual 3D printing workspace

My 3D Prints Summary #1

     Every once and a while I want to make a quick blog post highlighting some of the things that I've printed using my Printrbot LC 3D printer. These posts will be used to show off the prints that wouldn't be part of a larger project and are mostly just standalone pieces. This is the first of these posts. Check after the break for a more detailed breakdown.

Most of the good stuff I've printed so far

Printrbot Calibration Prints

     It's one thing to get a 3D printer set up to produce nice-looking prints, but it's another if those prints don't come out the size that you want them to. This quick post will help anyone get the axes on their 3D printer working just as they should. To make the most out of this post, you're going to need a pair of calipers.

Various calibration prints

Automatic Garden Waterer: Part 2

     This Automatic Garden Waterer project has kept me busy all summer long. Last time I posted about it, I had (mistakenly) thought it was finished, but issues with the solenoid valve caused me to take another path with it and create a new controller. I can confidently say that the new controller, not only functions a lot better, but looks much nicer while doing it. This is my first project using an Arduino, 16x2 character LCD, and 3D printing along with my other skills to create a cohesive product. Below is a video overview of the completed project, and below the break is all the work that occured to make it happen.

Printrbot Tip: Leveling the Printrbed

     Shortly after assembling and caibrating my Printrbot, I was able to print out my first object (Mr. Jaws by Mahoney in case you were wondering), but it took me a few tries to get the first layer to lay down right. I was able to get it working by increasing the bed temperature for the first layer to 130C from the default of 110C. I am unable to see what the actual temperature of my bed is, because the only thermocouple that I have was not working, but it should be close. Even with the higher temperature, I still had some troubles with parts laying down. Although I did try and level the bed the best I could, I rechecked it and it definitely needed some more work. After messing around with it for a while longer, I figured out the best way to get everything as level as possible.

Bed leveled with washers

     As Brook suggested, the bed needs to be leveled with washers on the four corners. After some time, I figured out that the best way to do this is to put the same size washer under each corner so you have the ability to move each corner up or down as needed. I used a pair of Digital Calipers to measure the thickness of the washers I had. The majority of them seemed to be 1.5mm so I used that as the base on each corner, but I also had washers with thicknesses of 1.3mm, 1.4mm, 1.6mm, 1.7mm, among others so I could swap the washers out to get small adjustments in the Z-direction in each corner. I once again checked the area of the Printrbed with a slice of paper in between the bed and the extruder tip, and although it was not perfect, the next object that I printed came out without a hitch. That object, by the way, was Pi Keychain / Backpack Charm by CodeCreations.

Freshly printed keychain

Although I only printed it because it was simple,
it should prevent me from losing this flash drive.